The Process of Making of Chikankari

The process of making Chikankari has distinct steps and each step involves artisans with specific skills honed over many years. This process hasn’t altered much over the millennia. Some steps of the process are traditionally done by the male members of the community; however, the key step of stitchery or embroidery has always been the women’s domain. The beauty of this tradition lies also in the fact that it transcends religion or caste as both Hindus and Muslims of Awadh have an equal claim to its heritage and practice to this day.

Here are the steps that go into the making of Chikankari

Selection of fabric – Muslin and fine cotton were always the preferred fabric because of its lightness and transparency. However, over the years, as taste evolved, various types of fabrics such as cotton, chiffon, silk, voile, organza, linen, hemp, muslin etc. came to be used.    

Block making – The foundation of any design is developed in this step in which a skilled craftsman carves the design of the ‘khakha’ with the chiseling tools on a wooden block. This is an age-old skill passed down the generations. Some blocks are literally centuries old and have been passed down as family treasures. Great care is taken to preserve them so that they carvings remain sharp and wood doesn’t crack.

Block printing on fabric (Chhapai) – Now, the selected block to be used for printing is dipped in the color solution which is made by mixing glue and indigo. Then the block is impressed upon the fabric to leave the design imprint.

Embroidery and needlework – Once the fabric is ready with an imprint of beautiful motifs design, now it’s time to start with the actual embroidery work. The basic requirements for making different stitches on the fabric are – a needle, thread, and a frame to hold the fabric in place. There are more than 30 types of Chikankari stitches – Bakhiya, Murri, Phanda, Zanzeera, Tepchi, Khatau Pechni to name a few. 

Washing & Drying – After the embroidery is completed, the fabric is soaked in water and then washed to remove the block printed blue dye. The stiffness and freshness of a Chikan product is obtained by starching and ironing of the cloth. With this step the fabric is ready to go to the market

Today, machine made Chikankari products are flooding the market. However, the discerning patrons of the art value handcrafted Chikankari products for their finesse, quality and above all the heritage they carry forward.